Baeza, Spain

The old town in Baeza is far more compact than in Úbeda. However, before exploring it, ttere's a lovely short walk to be had from the Plaza de España, heading along the Paseo de la Constitución. The monuments will come later, but here’s a chance to sample life in an Andalusian town. This is really the nerve centre of Baeza society. Bars with terraces for a coffee abound under the archways, while the pedestrianised central area is where pensioners stroll and kids play. If you’re lucky, the bandstand might even be in use.

Accommodation in Ubeda and Baeza

Many aspects of finding suitable accommodation in Úbeda and Baeza are similar to elsewhere in Europe, although there are a couple of interesting options that benefit from some extra explanation, such as the fact that Spain possesses an excellent group of publicly owned hotels called Paradores, often set up in renovated period buildings, one of which is in Úbeda. Paradores aren’t cheap, but they offer a unique set of surroundings instead of anonymous modern hotels. 

Tapas in Ubeda and Baeza

Úbeda and Baeza are renowned throughout Spain for the tapas that are served in their bars. This is because in much of Spain you have to pay if you want a tapa with your drink. However, in Úbeda and Baeza you get a tapa or aperitivo for free. They’re often famously large and you even make a light supper out of them. Bigger appetites can order extra dishes, called raciones, to share.

Olive oil from Ubeda and Baeza

The province of Jaén can justly claim to be one of the biggest producers of olive oil in the world. You only have to drive between Baeza, Úbeda and Cazorla to discover what I mean – mile after mile of rolling olive groves stretch out as far as the eye can see.

This oil from Jaén was traditionally sold in bulk to companies from other parts of Spain and the rest of Europe, but local businessmen are beginning to realize that they have an exceptional product on their hands if they start to bottle and market it themselves. Olive oil can be as complex as wine – numerous varieties (Picual is the most widespread one in this area) and styles exist, so it’s a question of marrying your personal taste to a product.

The Parador in Ubeda again

Here's another photo of the Parador in Úbeda, this time from the square outside. Isn't it gorgeous?!

The Parador in Ubeda

La Colegiata de Santa María de los Reales Alcázares

When in the centre of Úbeda, crossing the Plaza Vázquez de Molina towards the Palacio de Juan Vázquez de Molina (16^th Century, Renaissance), presently used as the Town Hall, you’ll also encounter the Colegiata de Santa María de los Reales Alcázares. As the building developed over six centuries (13^th- 19^th Century), so a whole host of styles are involved – from Gothic to Baroque, via Mudéjar and Renaissance.

La Colegiata de Santa maría de los Reales Alcázares

Sacra Capilla Funeraria de el Salvador in Ubeda

Next door to the Parador in Ubeda is the Sacra Capilla Funeraria de el Salvador (16^th Century). Bit of a mouthful, that one! It’s a privately-owned Renaissance funeral shire, the most impressive example of its kind in Spain and perhaps the most emblematic building in Úbeda.

Sacra Capilla Funeraria de el Salvador in Ubeda