The old town in Baeza is far more compact than in Úbeda. However, before exploring it, ttere's a lovely short walk to be had from the Plaza de España, heading along the Paseo de la Constitución. The monuments will come later, but here’s a chance to sample life in an Andalusian town. This is really the nerve centre of Baeza society. Bars with terraces for a coffee abound under the archways, while the pedestrianised central area is where pensioners stroll and kids play. If you’re lucky, the bandstand might even be in use.