Calle Romanones in Baeza

Once in the old town, I recommend taking Calle Romanones, and it’s here that the barrage of monuments really starts as the Antigua Universidad - old university - and the Iglesia de San Juan Evangelista (16^th Century), which used to be the university chapel, both come into view. Outstanding examples of Baeza’s architectural riches, they’re just a taste of what’s to come.

Calle Romanones in Baeza

La Casa del Populo in Baeza

Continuing with our tour of Baeza, at a right angle to the Antiguas Carnicerías is the Casa del Pópulo (16^th Century, Plateresque), also not to be sniffed at. It is now home to the local tourist office and is thus definitely worth a stop before continuing on our tour by entering the old town via some steps that lead up from the left-hand corner of the square.

Baeza Town Hall and the Antiguas Carnicerias, Baeza

In Baeza the sights begin with the Town Hall (Plateresque), a National Monument which is located down Calle Gaspar Becerra, a street off to the right of the Paseo de la Constitución. Making your way back to the afore-mentioned Paseo,  a left turn at the end of it will find you immediately in the Plaza del Pópulo. 

The most impressive building in the square is the Antiguas Carnicerías (16^th century, although it was actually moved brick by brick from its original position in Calle Atarazanas in 1962/63), where the local law courts are now housed.

Antiguas Carnicerias in Baeza

Baeza, Spain

The old town in Baeza is far more compact than in Úbeda. However, before exploring it, ttere's a lovely short walk to be had from the Plaza de España, heading along the Paseo de la Constitución. The monuments will come later, but here’s a chance to sample life in an Andalusian town. This is really the nerve centre of Baeza society. Bars with terraces for a coffee abound under the archways, while the pedestrianised central area is where pensioners stroll and kids play. If you’re lucky, the bandstand might even be in use.

Accommodation in Ubeda and Baeza

Many aspects of finding suitable accommodation in Úbeda and Baeza are similar to elsewhere in Europe, although there are a couple of interesting options that benefit from some extra explanation, such as the fact that Spain possesses an excellent group of publicly owned hotels called Paradores, often set up in renovated period buildings, one of which is in Úbeda. Paradores aren’t cheap, but they offer a unique set of surroundings instead of anonymous modern hotels. 

Tapas in Ubeda and Baeza

Úbeda and Baeza are renowned throughout Spain for the tapas that are served in their bars. This is because in much of Spain you have to pay if you want a tapa with your drink. However, in Úbeda and Baeza you get a tapa or aperitivo for free. They’re often famously large and you even make a light supper out of them. Bigger appetites can order extra dishes, called raciones, to share.

Olive oil from Ubeda and Baeza

The province of Jaén can justly claim to be one of the biggest producers of olive oil in the world. You only have to drive between Baeza, Úbeda and Cazorla to discover what I mean – mile after mile of rolling olive groves stretch out as far as the eye can see.

This oil from Jaén was traditionally sold in bulk to companies from other parts of Spain and the rest of Europe, but local businessmen are beginning to realize that they have an exceptional product on their hands if they start to bottle and market it themselves. Olive oil can be as complex as wine – numerous varieties (Picual is the most widespread one in this area) and styles exist, so it’s a question of marrying your personal taste to a product.